Building a Home Putting green using the USGA method – Part 2

Go back to Part 1 - The theory

I will describe in broad brush strokes how to build a home putting green using USGA recommendations, but because this is a green that only works if all the technical specifications are met, I certainly recommend it be built by a contractor with past experience. The layer thicknesses must be maintained to achieve the desired effect; too much rootzone mix in some places and not enough in others will lead to uneven nutrients and water availability to the plants causing problems in certain parts of the green. The technical specifications for the green are available on the USGA website.

So how is it built?

It follows very similar steps to the modified home putting green , in effect we are modifying an area for a green; the only difference is our modifications will now follow some very strict parameters. First the green area will need to be excavated and the bottom shaped to match the final contours. Because we need a 4” layer of gravel, a 2” choker layer, and 14” of rootzone mix, we will have a hole that is 20” deep minimum. Now in that bottom layer we will install a herringbone pattern drainage system, draining from the highest point(s) to the lowest (s). If you have a depression in your green, make sure there is a drain pipe below it. A side note: if you live in a climate where it freezes in winter, don’t design depressions in the home putting green, make sure the surface water will always drain off the green; the reason for this is when the ground is frozen, water can no longer move down to the subsurface drain, and ice will form on the surface. Ice is our enemy!

How do I do the drainage?

The trenches should be at least 8” deep, the drain should be wrapped in geotextile and the connections should be sealed with duct tape to prevent them coming apart and stop any foreign material from getting into the drain. Ideally continue the high points of the drain to a point outside the green with a riser to the surface and a cap. This can later be used to flush the drainage system in the event fine particles are getting in and blocking or slowing the water movement in the drain pipe. Check your slopes and make sure there are no humps or holes in the trench. Keep the bottom of the trench clean; keep the sides and edges clean, so any water on the bottom of the subsurface of the green will easily fall into the closest drain pipe. Place the pipe on the bottom of the trench and make sure you hold the pipe down as you backfill with the same gravel material you will be using for the bottom 4 inches of the green. Keep everything very clean; don’t contaminate the gravel with soil. This is probably a good time to add any subsurface irrigation as you already have the digging equipment and the place is already torn up. All irrigation pipes and heads should be placed outside of the green itself.

What next?

See Part 3 - Filling the USGA Specifiation Putting Green

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